Thursday, December 3rd
Today our class paid a visit to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. I had seen this memorial in my previous visit to Berlin in 2006, but seeing it a second time in light of all that I have learned about the debate over its creation was very interesting. Also, I had not entered the underground exhibition on my previous visit. The debate over the design and construction of this memorial lasted for a decade, and even after the construction many groups are opposed to its existence; this includes the Jewish community that has not accepted it as their memorial. While we were there, a Bundeswehr van pulled up and several military officials got off and began to tour the site. This is exactly what some feared would happen if the memorial was built, that it would become nothing more than a site on the official pilgrimage of government and military officials who would “pay their dues” and think nothing more of the Holocaust. Personally, I do not find the memorial very effective, though this is in part due to the fact that on my first visit I was unaware of its purpose as a memorial – I had thought it was just modern art executed on a very large scale. In 2006 I didn’t even know that the exhibition existed. I did enjoy the exhibition however, as it effectively focuses on the Jewish victims and families themselves, and not on the SS, the Nazis or their methods. Focusing instead on Jews in the context of their family lives makes the realization of the Holocaust a much more human event.
We also crossed the street towards Tiergarten where a second memorial has been placed to honor homosexuals who were victims of the Nazis. Like the Memorial to the Murdered Jews, this structure has been the topic of heated debate. The memorial features a looped video of two men passionately kissing each other, representing the kiss which would be enough to be arrested or shot by the SS. Some argue that the window from which one views this video is too low, and that children will be able to view the video, without understanding the context or purpose of it. Lesbian groups were also initially opposed to the monument, as the video features only men; thus, the decision has been made to switch the video back and forth between men and women every few years.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Gender Policy in Berlin
Monday, November 30th
Today in class we discussed women’s issues and gender policy in Germany, specifically in the labor market. Women in East Germany were generally left much worse off after unification than other demographics within Germany’s female population. While most women were employed in the GDR, this trend has not carried into post-reunified Germany. While reunification resulted in high levels of unemployment across the board, women’s unemployment rates grew at a must faster rate than men’s rates. This is due in part to the lack of legislation to protect women’s jobs, as women’s issues were neglected by government during reunification. The parliament which administered the reunification phase was male dominated, and women’s rights and issues were not sufficiently represented within the political ranks. Germany’s corporatist style of government is dominated my traditionally male centered institutions such as labor unions. The corporatist consensus thus leaves women almost completely out of the dialogue, as was the case in the early 1990s as Germany’s reunification was taking form. The representation of women’s issues was further neglected by the media, while some publications like the TAZ provided sections focused on women’s issues, most periodicals tended to view women as important consumers but catered to women with lifestyle and family sections and did not provide an adequate forum for the discussion of women’s issues.
Some of the most progressive German policies in women’s issues in the past decade have been imposed from above, by means of the European Union. Though Germany has been amongst the most hesitant nations to comply with EU gender policies, when faced with the threat of an EU lawsuit, Germany has acquiesced and integrated these policies into its own legislation. That the EU must force Germany to comply with gender policies is evidence that Germany is one of the least progressive EU states on women’s issues.
Today in class we discussed women’s issues and gender policy in Germany, specifically in the labor market. Women in East Germany were generally left much worse off after unification than other demographics within Germany’s female population. While most women were employed in the GDR, this trend has not carried into post-reunified Germany. While reunification resulted in high levels of unemployment across the board, women’s unemployment rates grew at a must faster rate than men’s rates. This is due in part to the lack of legislation to protect women’s jobs, as women’s issues were neglected by government during reunification. The parliament which administered the reunification phase was male dominated, and women’s rights and issues were not sufficiently represented within the political ranks. Germany’s corporatist style of government is dominated my traditionally male centered institutions such as labor unions. The corporatist consensus thus leaves women almost completely out of the dialogue, as was the case in the early 1990s as Germany’s reunification was taking form. The representation of women’s issues was further neglected by the media, while some publications like the TAZ provided sections focused on women’s issues, most periodicals tended to view women as important consumers but catered to women with lifestyle and family sections and did not provide an adequate forum for the discussion of women’s issues.
Some of the most progressive German policies in women’s issues in the past decade have been imposed from above, by means of the European Union. Though Germany has been amongst the most hesitant nations to comply with EU gender policies, when faced with the threat of an EU lawsuit, Germany has acquiesced and integrated these policies into its own legislation. That the EU must force Germany to comply with gender policies is evidence that Germany is one of the least progressive EU states on women’s issues.
Sunday, November 29, 2009
The Willy Brandt House
Wednesday, November 25th
Today our class met for a tour and some discussion at the Willy Brandt House, the headquarters of Germany’s Social Democratic Party, the SPD. We began our visit with a brief tour of the building. The Willy Brant House has a very interesting past; the SPD party resurrected the building plans which had been gathering dust without investors interested in building. When Berlin once again became the capital of Germany, the SPD took the opportunity to build the Willy Brandt House just a few blocks from the location of its previous Berlin headquarters. The Willy Brandt House is now located in the center of reunified Berlin!
After our tour and a lengthy discussion of a bronze-cast portrait of Willy Brandt himself, we met for a discussion of German foreign policy with Markus Engels. We were given a recently printed SPD manifesto, outlining the party’s goals in the wake of poor performance in the recent elections, and much of this document contained commentary on foreign policy issues. Mr. Engels shed some light on the importance of foreign policy in the German political arena, specifically on the German-American relationship. He talked about the war in Iraq and answered questions about whether or not Germany was doing enough in the global security effort. His answer: Germany is doing its fair share, the Iraq war was an unpopular war and the Bush administration was less popular still and Germany’s decision not to become involved was based on the sentiment of the German people, and not on politics, as some have claimed. Engels believes that Germany is fulfilling its responsibilities to the international community, citing German involvement in overseas peacekeeping operations, especially the conflict in Afghanistan, as Germany is the third greatest contributor of troops in that conflict. He was very firm that a new strategy was needed in Afghanistan, but that Germany was committed to the cause and would not simply pull its support; Engels stressed that Germany was waiting eagerly for Obama’s announcements concerning Afghanistan scheduled for this week. He also defended Germany’s relationship with Russia, which has been criticized throughout the West. Engels argued that it was only logical for Germany to develop healthy relations with its biggest neighbor – he mentioned German dependence on Russian oil as well.
Mr. Engels was obviously a politician, never answering any question directly, and refusing to offer any critique of Angela Merkel or her speech o the joint houses of Congress in Washington DC a few weeks ago. The answers he did provide were very helpful, and I left the Willy Brandt House with a much clearer picture of the SPD’s approach to foreign policy.
Monday, November 23, 2009
The Free State of Bavaria
Friday, November 20th
Today we met with Andreas Kolitsch, of the Bayerisches Staatsministerium fur Unterricht und Kultus. We listened to a lecture about Munich and the Free State of Bavaria. We discussed the structure of the German government and touched on some differences with the US system. What was more interesting to me however, was Andreas’ description of Bavaria’s role in foreign policy. I am conducting my independent study on foreign policy and Germany’s role in the international community and I was interested to hear about Bavaria’s role in formation of foreign policy both within the federal government and independently throughout the world. Bavaria sends representatives to the EU to lobby for its own interests, not only those of Germany. I was surprised to learn that Bavaria also acts unilaterally in foreign policy, going as far as establishing independent offices in foreign countries. Bavaria has developed a coalition with South Africa in order to fight AIDS in Africa, and has representatives employed there in permanent positions. I asked Mr. Kolitsch if he would be willing to answer a few further questions via email as I work on my independent study project, and he was happy to provide me with his contact information. He will surely prove to be a valuable resource, as I plan to discuss the growing importance of the Lander and their role in German foreign
Today we met with Andreas Kolitsch, of the Bayerisches Staatsministerium fur Unterricht und Kultus. We listened to a lecture about Munich and the Free State of Bavaria. We discussed the structure of the German government and touched on some differences with the US system. What was more interesting to me however, was Andreas’ description of Bavaria’s role in foreign policy. I am conducting my independent study on foreign policy and Germany’s role in the international community and I was interested to hear about Bavaria’s role in formation of foreign policy both within the federal government and independently throughout the world. Bavaria sends representatives to the EU to lobby for its own interests, not only those of Germany. I was surprised to learn that Bavaria also acts unilaterally in foreign policy, going as far as establishing independent offices in foreign countries. Bavaria has developed a coalition with South Africa in order to fight AIDS in Africa, and has representatives employed there in permanent positions. I asked Mr. Kolitsch if he would be willing to answer a few further questions via email as I work on my independent study project, and he was happy to provide me with his contact information. He will surely prove to be a valuable resource, as I plan to discuss the growing importance of the Lander and their role in German foreign
A Lakeside Villa with a Chilling History
Thursday, November 19th
Today our class made an excursion out to the site of the Wannsee Conference. The villa where the conference took place is still intact, and though most of the original furniture was stolen in the wake of WWII, the majority of the interior remained as it was in the 1930s. The exhibition was split into separate rooms, each one with a different theme, all relating to the holocaust and the development and execution of the “final solution.” Professor Wagner stressed the significance of the specific men who attended the Wannsee Conference, and the representative from the exhibition touched on this as well. Almost all of the attendees were Staatsekretariatat, positions which might be compared to the cabinet in American government, the bulk of the policy forming government officials consisted of roughly 50 state secretaries. The majority of the men were relatively young, half were under 40 and only two were older than 50, meaning that the majority of these men built their political careers under National Socialism and were probably truly indoctrinated believers in Hitler’s system. This is further supported by the fact that the majority of the men were well educated, two thirds had degrees and half were doctors, mostly in law. Several groups were represented amongst the attendees. The first group was comprised of ministry officials concerned with the “Jewish Question” including a few specifically involved in policy towards Mischlinge, or mixed race Jews. Another group represented Heydrich’s office, including Gestapo Chief Muller, as well as Eichmann and several other security officers. Officials from the SS and a few Party Members especially concerned with the Jewish Question were also present. A fourth group of men had been invited at the last minute; these were men from agencies responsible for the civilian administration of occupied territories in the East. This specific list of attendees is important because it supports the argument that this conference was set up to inform these men about Hitler’s decision to eradicate the Jewish race throughout Europe. Years later during their trials, most of these men claimed the meeting was only concerned with the “evacuation” and “deportation” of Jews. However, this was obviously not the case, as the list of attendees did not include representatives from the military or any transportation specialists, who certainly would have been in attendance had the transport of hundreds of thousands of Jews been the focus of the Wannsee Conference. The exhibition included photos and biographical information about each of the attendees, as well as his position in Hitler’s regime. Presented in this way, it was much easier to make connections between the men in attendance, and the true purpose of the Wannsee Conference – this exhibition was extremely effective in this way.
Today our class made an excursion out to the site of the Wannsee Conference. The villa where the conference took place is still intact, and though most of the original furniture was stolen in the wake of WWII, the majority of the interior remained as it was in the 1930s. The exhibition was split into separate rooms, each one with a different theme, all relating to the holocaust and the development and execution of the “final solution.” Professor Wagner stressed the significance of the specific men who attended the Wannsee Conference, and the representative from the exhibition touched on this as well. Almost all of the attendees were Staatsekretariatat, positions which might be compared to the cabinet in American government, the bulk of the policy forming government officials consisted of roughly 50 state secretaries. The majority of the men were relatively young, half were under 40 and only two were older than 50, meaning that the majority of these men built their political careers under National Socialism and were probably truly indoctrinated believers in Hitler’s system. This is further supported by the fact that the majority of the men were well educated, two thirds had degrees and half were doctors, mostly in law. Several groups were represented amongst the attendees. The first group was comprised of ministry officials concerned with the “Jewish Question” including a few specifically involved in policy towards Mischlinge, or mixed race Jews. Another group represented Heydrich’s office, including Gestapo Chief Muller, as well as Eichmann and several other security officers. Officials from the SS and a few Party Members especially concerned with the Jewish Question were also present. A fourth group of men had been invited at the last minute; these were men from agencies responsible for the civilian administration of occupied territories in the East. This specific list of attendees is important because it supports the argument that this conference was set up to inform these men about Hitler’s decision to eradicate the Jewish race throughout Europe. Years later during their trials, most of these men claimed the meeting was only concerned with the “evacuation” and “deportation” of Jews. However, this was obviously not the case, as the list of attendees did not include representatives from the military or any transportation specialists, who certainly would have been in attendance had the transport of hundreds of thousands of Jews been the focus of the Wannsee Conference. The exhibition included photos and biographical information about each of the attendees, as well as his position in Hitler’s regime. Presented in this way, it was much easier to make connections between the men in attendance, and the true purpose of the Wannsee Conference – this exhibition was extremely effective in this way.
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Neukoelln: Issues of Outreach to Berlin's Immigrant Poulation
Wednesday, November 11th
Today we visited Neukoelln, an area of Berlin generally known for its dense immigrant population. We met at the offices of the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation, an organization which provides programs and services to immigrant families in the Neukoelln area. One of these programs was similar to the Big Brothers Big Sisters organization in the U.S. This program provided mentors to local immigrant children, helping them to integrate into the German culture and educational system. This mentor program focused on the use of extracurricular activities to improve performance in school. The current German education system disadvantages immigrant children for whom German is not a first language, resulting in a relatively low graduation rate for immigrant children. Mentor programs like those provided by the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation are important in providing assistance to this demographic that immigrant families are unable to themselves. The second program was the Neukoelln Mother’s program, which educates local mothers about local programs and institutions which can provide aid for immigrant families, and in turn these women to educate other mothers and families about these resources. This is an extremely important outreach service because many immigrant families are either afraid (due to their illegal status) or unable (due to language barriers) to access these programs and institutions themselves. Neukoelln Mothers are able to gain access to families too afraid to come directly to the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation, or other organizations for help. Several issues cause major problems for the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation in implementing these programs. The first and most important issue is funding. Berlin is a very poor city, and while authorities recognize the importance of such programs, convincing them to provide funding is a challenge. The women involved in the Neukoelln Mothers program are paid for their important work, but local government places requirements upon the program in order to justify funding; i.e. the requirement that Mothers must visit 2 families a month, which many are unable to do. Secondly, as mentioned above, illegal immigrant families are fearful of government aided institutions such as the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation because they believe involvement in their programs put their immigration status at risk. This requires the Neukoelln Mothers program to make only indirect contact with immigrant families, and the program must rely entirely on the honor system, hoping that Mothers are being effective and truly doing their job in the community. Overall, the work of the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation is very important, but a lack of funding and the reluctance of fearful immigrant families to seek help create major obstacles for the well-meaning organization.
Today we visited Neukoelln, an area of Berlin generally known for its dense immigrant population. We met at the offices of the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation, an organization which provides programs and services to immigrant families in the Neukoelln area. One of these programs was similar to the Big Brothers Big Sisters organization in the U.S. This program provided mentors to local immigrant children, helping them to integrate into the German culture and educational system. This mentor program focused on the use of extracurricular activities to improve performance in school. The current German education system disadvantages immigrant children for whom German is not a first language, resulting in a relatively low graduation rate for immigrant children. Mentor programs like those provided by the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation are important in providing assistance to this demographic that immigrant families are unable to themselves. The second program was the Neukoelln Mother’s program, which educates local mothers about local programs and institutions which can provide aid for immigrant families, and in turn these women to educate other mothers and families about these resources. This is an extremely important outreach service because many immigrant families are either afraid (due to their illegal status) or unable (due to language barriers) to access these programs and institutions themselves. Neukoelln Mothers are able to gain access to families too afraid to come directly to the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation, or other organizations for help. Several issues cause major problems for the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation in implementing these programs. The first and most important issue is funding. Berlin is a very poor city, and while authorities recognize the importance of such programs, convincing them to provide funding is a challenge. The women involved in the Neukoelln Mothers program are paid for their important work, but local government places requirements upon the program in order to justify funding; i.e. the requirement that Mothers must visit 2 families a month, which many are unable to do. Secondly, as mentioned above, illegal immigrant families are fearful of government aided institutions such as the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation because they believe involvement in their programs put their immigration status at risk. This requires the Neukoelln Mothers program to make only indirect contact with immigrant families, and the program must rely entirely on the honor system, hoping that Mothers are being effective and truly doing their job in the community. Overall, the work of the Neukoelln Citizen Foundation is very important, but a lack of funding and the reluctance of fearful immigrant families to seek help create major obstacles for the well-meaning organization.
Mauerfall 2009!
Monday, November 9th
The celebrations marking the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall were extremely exciting. Immediately after class on Monday, several classmates and I made our way to the Brandenburg gate where over 1000 styrofoam dominoes had been erected. An enormous turnout for the event resulted in much jostling for position around the line of dominoes which extended from just north of the Reichstag to Potsdammerplatz. I was able to climb on top of a bus stop, which allowed me an excellent view of dominoes as well as the large screens providing coverage of the political speeches at the Brandenburg gate. Overall, the general feeling of the very international crowd was positive, and each of the politicians was cheered before and after their speeches.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
The Berlin Gallery Scene
Wenessday 4th, 2009
On Wednesday our class concluded our tour of the Berlin gallery scene with Hans Koenings. According to the Roman Kräussl text we read in class, Germany hosts the highest number of art institutions per capita in the world, and Berlin, controlling 29% of the art market in Germany, ranks among the most artsy of European cities. Berlin holds a slight lead in the German art market, but Munich and other cities of German’s diverse regions remain close on Berlin’s heels. Germany’s federalist system results in a decentralized art market, meaning one city will never dominate the art landscape of Germany, creating a diverse and ever changing market.
We learned that the cheap real estate prices in Berlin make it possible for up and coming artists to establish themselves. Production Galleries, which are created by small groups of artists who pay pitch in to pay for a gallery’s rent as well as a curator to manage and promote it, are an easy way for artists to break into the Berlin art scene. Smaller galleries are constantly searching for new artists to promote; the low overhead and high popularity of the Berlin gallery scene allows these galleries a relative amount of flexibility. Production galleries however, are often short lived, exhibiting art for an average of two years; at which point most will close permanently, though the most successful galleries may continue on to become permanent art institutions. This system creates a sort of turnaround for the gallery scene in Berlin, constantly providing the city new galleries and bringing fresh faces and talents to the forefront of the German capital’s art scene.
Those established galleries which are able stay in business are constantly looking for new artists to host in their exhibitions, and many put on events and attend art fairs in search of new talent. This results in a packed calendar of art related events which keeps artists, curators and consumers busy throughout the year in Berlin. One of Berlin’s biggest art events is the “art forum berlin,” a four day international art show in late September; the 2009 forum attracted 40,000 collectors, museum directors, curators and art lovers from all over the world according to its website. Of course, events of this size involve much larger institutions than Berlin’s many small galleries, but these galleries still establish a presence at these enormous events.
On Wednesday our class concluded our tour of the Berlin gallery scene with Hans Koenings. According to the Roman Kräussl text we read in class, Germany hosts the highest number of art institutions per capita in the world, and Berlin, controlling 29% of the art market in Germany, ranks among the most artsy of European cities. Berlin holds a slight lead in the German art market, but Munich and other cities of German’s diverse regions remain close on Berlin’s heels. Germany’s federalist system results in a decentralized art market, meaning one city will never dominate the art landscape of Germany, creating a diverse and ever changing market.
We learned that the cheap real estate prices in Berlin make it possible for up and coming artists to establish themselves. Production Galleries, which are created by small groups of artists who pay pitch in to pay for a gallery’s rent as well as a curator to manage and promote it, are an easy way for artists to break into the Berlin art scene. Smaller galleries are constantly searching for new artists to promote; the low overhead and high popularity of the Berlin gallery scene allows these galleries a relative amount of flexibility. Production galleries however, are often short lived, exhibiting art for an average of two years; at which point most will close permanently, though the most successful galleries may continue on to become permanent art institutions. This system creates a sort of turnaround for the gallery scene in Berlin, constantly providing the city new galleries and bringing fresh faces and talents to the forefront of the German capital’s art scene.
Those established galleries which are able stay in business are constantly looking for new artists to host in their exhibitions, and many put on events and attend art fairs in search of new talent. This results in a packed calendar of art related events which keeps artists, curators and consumers busy throughout the year in Berlin. One of Berlin’s biggest art events is the “art forum berlin,” a four day international art show in late September; the 2009 forum attracted 40,000 collectors, museum directors, curators and art lovers from all over the world according to its website. Of course, events of this size involve much larger institutions than Berlin’s many small galleries, but these galleries still establish a presence at these enormous events.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Gleis 17
Thursday, October 29th
Our class made an excursion this week to what is now my favorite Holocaust related memorial in Berlin. Gleis 17 is a platform at the Grunewald S-Bahn stop where thousands of Jews were packed into train cars and taken to concentration camps like Auschwitz and Theresienstadt. The platform has been rebuilt as a memorial to those Jews who boarded trains there throughout the 1930’s and 40’s. The floor of the platform is made of steel grates upon which dates of departing trains are inscribed along with the number of Jews on each train and the concentration camp which would be their destination. When walking down the platform and reading this information, one can see that trains transporting thousands of Jews to their death departed from the platform on consecutive days. It is obvious that trains no longer run through this platform, as trees have sprouted and grown between the tracks, standing as symbols or measurements of the time that has passed since the platform was used. The memorial was constructed here in the wake of a grassroots movement of mourners who illegally visited the site, which had been closed off by Deutsche Bahn, to pay tribute to those who were murdered in the Holocaust. Hundreds of flowers were laid upon the tracks, and several floral wreaths were placed at one end – we learned later that these had been placed by a high ranking member of Israeli defense forces just a few days earlier. Gleis 17 is my favorite Holocaust memorial because of its original location; it reminded me of how efficiently the Nazi’s murdered millions of Jews during the Holocaust.
The Lives of Others
Monday, October 26th
On Monday of this week I was required to lead class discussion regarding the German film; The Lives of Others. I was pleased to lead discussion this week because this film is one of my personal favorites. The Lives of Others tells the story of a German playwright living in
This image of a highly secretive and effective Stasi, which infiltrates and manipulates the lives of citizens, is far different from that depicted in Christa Wolf’s, What Remains. Once an informer herself, Wolf is familiar with the tactics used by the Stasi as well as those tactics which can protect her from further trouble with the GDR state, such as speaking in code when talking on the telephone. Unlike Dreymann who is ignorant of his being under surveillance, Wolf is fully aware of the three Stasi men in the car which is constantly parked in front of her house. Dreymann continues with his life and conspiracy thinking that his flat is the only safe place in the GDR where he can talk freely with his friends, while Wolf changes every aspect of her life in order to protect herself from the Stasi informers and spies placed all around her. Just like The Lives of Others, stories of the Stasi and its more or less secret operations make for a good story, however, first-hand accounts like Wolf’s really hit home reminding us that the Stasi was a very real institution which operated in
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Hooligans
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Sunday marked the date of Hertha BSC Berlin’s home football match against Wolfsburg. We attended the game as a class, and despite the 0-0 draw outcome, the game was an exciting and entertaining experience. Though last year both teams were highly competitive in the Bundesliga, neither team has performed very well this season. The Olympiadstation, a location of staggering history, holds a maximum of 74,000 fans, and only about half of the available seats were filled for the Sunday matchup.
Hertha does not hold a monopoly on Berlin football; Union Berlin, a football club originating in East Germany, is also popular. In addition, the 2009-2010 season marks the first year Union Berlin has competed in 2. Bundesliga, which is Germany’s second-best professional league. Making things more interesting, Hertha’s poor performance this year could mean a demotion to 2. Bundesliga, resulting in league competition between Berlin’s two teams!
Bringing a Jewish Past to Present-Day Berlin
Thursday, October 22, 2009
On Thursday our class made an excursion to the Jewish Museum in Berlin. This museum consists of two buildings which appear separated from the above ground, but are connected by underground tunnels. The oldest building was constructed as a courthouse in the 18th century; the newer building, designed by Daniel Libeskind, was finished and opened in 2001 (nearly a decade after its design).
The newer portion of the Jewish Museum is well known for its unique architecture, though some of its more interesting and complicated architectural features were changed or abandoned during the construction process to cut costs. The structure of the building is supposed to have an effect upon those inside of it. In fact, when the amazing structure was finished, debate arose over whether or not the building should remain empty and serve as a memorial instead of being filled with relics to function as a museum. Eventually the decision was made for it to become a museum as intended.
Upon first entering the museum I was not significantly affected by the architecture; though I thought it was very creative, it did not communicate a specific message to me about Jewish experience. This changed, however, upon my entering the Holocaust Tower. This structure stands apart from the remainder of the museum structure but remains connected to it by a hallway called the Axis of Holocaust. I remember being suddenly aware of the darkness and the cold when I stepped into the tower. Even the slightest noise made within echoed for several seconds. The only source of light was a small opening at the top of the tower, though the light entered indirectly, discouraging the idea that this was a possible way out of the tower. I felt trapped and alone, despite the presence of some 30 other tourists within the Tower. I now understood the hype about Libeskind’s architecture, which truly affected me.
On Thursday our class made an excursion to the Jewish Museum in Berlin. This museum consists of two buildings which appear separated from the above ground, but are connected by underground tunnels. The oldest building was constructed as a courthouse in the 18th century; the newer building, designed by Daniel Libeskind, was finished and opened in 2001 (nearly a decade after its design).
The newer portion of the Jewish Museum is well known for its unique architecture, though some of its more interesting and complicated architectural features were changed or abandoned during the construction process to cut costs. The structure of the building is supposed to have an effect upon those inside of it. In fact, when the amazing structure was finished, debate arose over whether or not the building should remain empty and serve as a memorial instead of being filled with relics to function as a museum. Eventually the decision was made for it to become a museum as intended.
Upon first entering the museum I was not significantly affected by the architecture; though I thought it was very creative, it did not communicate a specific message to me about Jewish experience. This changed, however, upon my entering the Holocaust Tower. This structure stands apart from the remainder of the museum structure but remains connected to it by a hallway called the Axis of Holocaust. I remember being suddenly aware of the darkness and the cold when I stepped into the tower. Even the slightest noise made within echoed for several seconds. The only source of light was a small opening at the top of the tower, though the light entered indirectly, discouraging the idea that this was a possible way out of the tower. I felt trapped and alone, despite the presence of some 30 other tourists within the Tower. I now understood the hype about Libeskind’s architecture, which truly affected me.
Berlin's New Synagogue
On Thursday, October 15th, our class took a tour of what might be called the Jewish quarter of Berlin, where much of Berlin’s Jewish population was concentrated before the Holocaust. We visited several sites of importance to Berlin’s Jewish heritage, as well as the resistance to Nazi deportation of Jews. One such site was Otto Weidt’s old brush factory where blind and def Jews were employed and protected from deportation during WWII. Otto Weidt’s story is much like that of the famous Spielberg film, Schindler’s List. Because his trade in the brush industry was labeled as necessary for the war effort, Weidt was able, through bribery and conspiracy, to obtain documents allowing many Jews in his employ to avoid deportation to concentration camps. We took a short tour of the small factory, now set up as an exhibition paying tribute to Weidt’s noble deeds. We were also able to meet with the director of the exhibition, who revealed its origins as a school project! Next, we made our way to the New Synagogue on Oranienburgstrasse. Constructed in the early 1860s, this Synagogue became the Jewish community’s center in Berlin, until it was almost completely destroyed by bombs during WWII. The synagogue has now been partially restored, and remains a cultural center for the Jewish community, its role however, has expanded, as the synagogue has opened its doors to the public, as a museum of the synagogue’s history, and that of the Berlin’s Jewish community. A large part of the synagogue has not been restored however, though the Jewish community has been offered the funds to rebuild, it has deferred this decision to future generations, claiming that the Jewish population in Berlin has not yet recovered to the point that it could fill the fully restored building. Thus, the partially restored synagogue remains a symbol of an only partially restored Jewish community in Berlin.
For the weekend of October 9th, our class headed south to
Monday, October 19, 2009
Saturday Afternoon, October 3, 2009
After the emotional reuniting of the giants, a few classmates and I made the long detour north around Brandenburg Tor and then west to enter onto Straβe des 17. Juni about halfway between the Gate and the Victory Column. We then began to wade through the crowd back towards Brandenburg Tor. We visited the various booths lining both sides of the street, filling up on bratwurst hacksteak, and waffles, as we made our way to the enormous stage which was set up on the west side of the Gate. As it grew dark the stage lit up and an incredible concert began. Hosted by MTV, the concert featured several popular German artists whom I had never heard of before; despite this, the music was awesome and I had a great time. I was surprised by the diversity in the ages of those who attended the concert, though I would normally expect only the Berlin youth to attend the event, I saw people of all ages enjoying the music – these older Berliners had probably attended the dramatic festivities of the afternoon and were simply not ready to head home when there was still so much to see. After the concert, I discussed the days events over a beer with a few friends who from Berlin. When I left to head home in the wee hours of the morning, the night was still beautiful, and I decided to pay one more visit to Brandenburg Tor now that the crowds had dispersed. When I arrived, all was quiet except for the subtle sounds of the two slumbering giants, the smallest of which rested on the lap of the larger. The pair was silhouetted eerily against the lights on the Brandenburg Gate. I snapped one last photo of the incredible figures, and then resumed my journey home.
Above and to the right is a photo I took of the west side of the Brandenburg Gate, during the rock concert. Left is a picture from the east side of the Gate, where the giants slumbered.
Unity Day 2009
Saturday Afternoon, October 3, 2009
Germany’s national holiday, Unity Day, takes place annually on October 3rd to commemorate the anniversary of German Reunification in 1990. On this day most shops and stores close and people take to the streets to enjoy a variety of festivities. In the afternoon, I made my way to Brandenburg Tor; this was easier said than done, due to the closing of major streets and the rerouting of public transportation to accommodate the thousands of pedestrians pouring into the historical center of Berlin. Had I been a complete stranger to the city I would have easily found my way to Brandenburg Tor as everyone was caught up in the river of people flowing down Unter den Linden. The most emotional moment of the day came when the two giants, who had been winding their ways through the streets of Berlin for the past several days, finally came together. I could barely see the action above the crowd but the atmosphere was electric. Though the reaction of the people was overwhelmingly positive, I could not help but think of those amongst them who had lived in the GDR and whose hopes and dreams for a legitimate, socialist democratic East Germany were crushed by Unification with Western Germany. Surely the annual celebration of Unification brings up conflicted feelings of both the happiness of being one people again, and nostalgia for the East Germany of which they were citizens for four decades. This was a cultural experience I will never forget, though I did not fully understand the metaphor of the two giants - the crowd clearly identified with the symbols of unity.
Pictured above is a photo I took on Friday October 2nd. The smaller of the two giants is pictured slumbering peacefully, surrounded by interested onlookers. In the background is Humboldt University where I am currently attending classes.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Aufwiedersehen, USA
Two weeks from now my flight will be landing in Munich, Germany, where I will spend several days before heading North to Berlin for the Quarter. I will be staying in Munich for several days with friends before heading to Losenstein, Austria to hang out with my friend Michael for a night. After my visit to Austria, my plans are open; I may return to Munich or just head straight to Berlin.
I am brushing up on my German using software programs, Podcasts and my old German textbooks. I plan to continue studying German during my stay in Berlin, where I will have opportunities to use the language on a daily basis. I believe an understanding of the native language will allow me to better connect with Germans in Berlin.
I am brushing up on my German using software programs, Podcasts and my old German textbooks. I plan to continue studying German during my stay in Berlin, where I will have opportunities to use the language on a daily basis. I believe an understanding of the native language will allow me to better connect with Germans in Berlin.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)